Jun 12 2008
Lighthouse Trail – Southern Shore
Most of Nova Scotia’s roads are named “Something Trail”; they are the scenic route, an alternative to the federal highways. South of Halifax (perhaps the greatest little city on Earth?), you find yourself on the Lighthouse Trail. Aptly named.
Halifax was bright and shiny, and twenty kilometers south, Peggys Cove (notice, no apostrophe – must be a Canadian thing?) was foggy, misty, and absolutely freezing cold. However, it was an amazing sight. The lighthouse there is among the most famous of the Maritimes, saving sailors from the treacherous rocks and from getting lost in the ubiquitous fog. Oh, and did I mention that it was cold? It was at least thirty degrees cooler and with a very “nippy” wind coming off the ocean. [More Peggys Cove photos]
Further down the coast, the weather magically warmed. The sun was out and it turned into a beautiful day. Nova Scotia weather seems to be this way! We visited Mahone Bay, an amazingly quaint seaside village, and Lunenberg, a historic fishing town.
Mahone Bay has a good yarn shop and a good tea shop, practically side by side, so we sampled the goods in both places. We ate a light dinner in Lunenberg at a little deli, visited a used book store, and then headed out to The Ovens Natural Park, just south of Lunenberg. First night of camping!
As you can see, we were pretty excited to camp. Our campsite was premium – those trees right behind the tent were barrier for the wind right off the ocean. Just a few feet away from our tent was this amazing scenery:
…Pebble beach and seaweed on one side…
…huge amazing rock on the other!
And can you believe that we were the ONLY people at this site? Even the campground owners were absent! The night was chilly – I wore two pairs of pants, two pairs of socks, three shirts and a cardigan, mittens, and a hat to sleep in WITH my subzero proof sleeping bag! – but it was worth it. Nothing like being lulled to sleep with ocean waves! or waking up to an amazing sunrise. The Ovens is so named because of the sea caves that are on the property of the park. We took a walking tour the next morning.
Stunning – carved out by millenia of wind and water. Very elemental 
Next, we headed inland to one of the two Nova Scotian national parks. Kejimkujik (ke-jee-muh-koo-jik) National Park is based around the series of glacial lakes in the south central province. We hiked several trails in the park – my favorite was through the old growth hemlock forest.
After seeing so many beautiful trees, Kris and I were inspired to try the tree pose for ourselves (well, that, and it was Yoga Wednesday when we were there) on the shores of Lake Kejimkujik.
We spent the night in Liverpool, and then headed to the Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct, the second part of the park, located on the southeastern Atlantic coast. Again, we had the park (virtually) to ourselves. Just us and the seals and porcupines, that is.
Adorable little lump, isn’t he? Harbour Seal just sitting on the rock.
We hiked all of the trails that were open (some were closed because of nesting seabirds). Keji Seaside was one of the most memorable places in the province. The water was so irresistably blue – it looks like the Caribbean, doesn’t it? [All Kejimkujik photos here]
Next up: boat rides, seabirds, historic villages, and meeting knitters on the Acadian Shore!
Ocean side camping can be tough. I remember the first time I camped in California with my husband. (Neither of us grew up here, being true midwesterner’s we thought we were tough) well we had to get up in the middle of the night to move the truck as a wind block! Camping at the ocean in April was maybe a little too early.
Your pictures are stunning as always & it just looks like a wonderful time!
Beautiful photos, Lolly! Thanks for sharing your travels.. Hopefully I’ll get to visit NS in the next few years. I’d love to go camping like you and your hubby did. Did you have any problems with your luggage, taking your gear with you?
It looks absolutely wonderful! I would love to go there someday. Lovely photos, too, you’re really an excellent photographer.
What stunning scenery! And very refreshing to read about your trip on such a hot day.
Wow, that is soo beautiful! I love your photos.
I have a pair of sleeping bags that are opposites, you can zip them together and create one big bag, perfect for two to snuggle up in. I found that it’s a lot warmer than when you’re by yourself in the bag (I’ve camped in snow before, brr). Maybe something to check out, (which you may have done already), if you plan on more cold camping.
So picturesque! Thanks for sharing your photos!
Kris is too funny in that jumping photo. I’m so enjoying your travels, it really appears to be such a beautiful place. It’s great that you were able to spend so much time exploring the natural beauty of the place. I hope the Washington state beaches compare when you come to visit!
Wow – what an environment!
Wow, I had never given a second thought about Nova Scotia before I saw your amazing photos. Now it has moved up my list of travel destinations! I looking forward to the rests of your posts!
What an amazing trip. This is just gorgeous! I’m glad you had such a great time.
You know, you are taking me on such a trip down memory lane that I am going to have to figure out a way to take my kids back that way in the future!
Love Peggys Cove…oh yeah, I LOVE lighthouses too.
Nice photos
What an amazing campsite!!!
Nope, not a Canadian thing (I draw your attention to St John’s Nfld for example), just a Peggys Cove thing. Interestingly it used to be Peggy’s Cove, but I don’t know why they changed it. Someone out there must know though!
Nice pictures!
knitography: I saw it a few other places too… I just can’t recall what they were right now…
Beautiful photos! I always love hearing about your travels!
Your gorgeous pictures really do justice to the wonderful landscapes of Nova Scotia!
WOW! Lovely pictures yes, but actually being there – WOW and camping no less. Sounds incredible. I hope to travel to PEI in the next couple of years, but I don’t know that camping will be on the menu – I’m more of an “indoor gal.” I’ll fantasize through your experiences for a while if you don’t mind. Thanks for sharing.
Amazingly beautiful! I just love the pictures you’ve shared.
)
Our world is so beautiful, and you and Kris are determined to see all its most beautiful spots. Really breathtaking.
thank you for sharing your wonderful trip…
Thanks so much for sharing your Nova Scotia pics. They are wonderful – checked them all out on Flickr! We were there for our honeymoon decades ago, and you’ve convinced me it’s time to begin planning a return trip.
What a wonderful place to camp!
We are going to buy the kids sleepingbags so we can start to
sleep in the tent with them this summer
Have a great weekend!
what an amazing place! Someplace I’d never really think about going, but your pictures pique my interest!
Fantastic photos! Looks like a great trip!
Us Bluenosers (that’s Nova Scotians) have an expression about the variable weather: “If you don’t like the weather, wait 5 minutes.” … because it’s bound to change.
Glad to see you had such a great trip! Makes me miss home seeing your photos!
Lolly – I love the pictures of your trip. The Boy and I took a preview to see what we’ll be seeing in August. We signed up for a tour of the lighthouses in Halifax (I think), and I do believe your pictures helped get him a bit more (!) excited about our trip. Thanks for the preview!!
:O)
Great NS pics! Glad to see you went to Cape Breton (I am half Cape Bretoner – half Newfoundlander….)…..
Perhaps you’ll get to Newfoundland some day !
Your pictures are just fabulous! I would so love to visit Nova Scotia. There is such beautiful country there. But, you live in one of my favorite places, Washington, DC. I get there as often as I can. Keep up the good work, I love reading your blog!
You and Kris look like ya’ll had a lot of fun on your trip. The pictures are beautiful. It really makes me want to visit Nova Scotia.
What a great northern vacation!
Ah! Lovely! Can’t wait to read more!
Wow! Makes me want to go hiking.
Glad you had fun.
Lolly, this looks amazing!!!! I can’t wait to see more, keep ‘em coming!
Re: the lack of apostrophes. On maps, apostrophe’s can easily be mistaken for a dot (indicating an island or a town), so we’ve just eliminated all apostrophes from place names. Strange, maybe, but practical.
Lolly, Thanks for the pictures from the Ovens! It really took me back to a camping trip that my husband and I took some 15-20 years ago. We stopped in Lunenburg for a music festival where we saw a, then quite young Natalie McMasters (a brilliant Cape Breton fiddler). We then camped in that very spot…and if not that spot, something awfully close! We’ve been to Nova Scotia twice and loved every minute of it!
I’m not sure I’d be brave enough to camp in such cold conditions, but the setting is truly lovely. All your photos are beautiful and provide a great “tour” of your vacation. Stay warm and have fun!
Those pictures are gorgeous. Thank you so much for sharing your vacation.
[...] I finished the first cowl a few days into our trip. I used two yarns that have lived in the stash for so long that I don’t remember when I get them! This cowl is called the “Keji” Cowl, because I finished it right before we explored the Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct. [...]
God I love our east coast and you have captured it’s beauty in these photos. I’m jealous…I want to go back east again…you must get yeeself to Newfoundland for some wonderful rugged sights as well. Halifax…the most cosmopolitan small town city I’ve ever been too, love it.