Jun 17 2008
Cape Breton Highlands
After receiving a plethora of accolades, it is nice to see that none of it has gone to Cape Breton’s [collective] head. Quietly receiving all sorts of mentions on Top 10 lists and Must See Destinations – but, at the end of the day, there is not even an ounce of ego or entitlement in this place.
One of the most beautiful places I have ever encountered? Definitely.
Some of the friendliest people I have ever met? Without a doubt.
(This can be said for all Nova Scotians…)
We crossed the Canso Causeway (above) from the “mainland” to Cape Breton Island in a late afternoon. It was evident from the minute that we crossed the bridge that the Island was going to be a little different. In the rest of Nova Scotia, it is normal (maybe even required by law?) to have all of the street signs and directional highway signs in English AND French. And while there was French on the sign on the Island, there was also the addition of Gaelic translations. Nova Scotia = New Scotland.
We made our way up the Ceilidh Trail, which celebrates the musical gatherings that are common in this area, and in other areas where Celtic diaspora settled. We spent the night in Mabou, home of a well-known musical family, the Rankins, and their music at the Red Shoe Pub. Unfortunately, we were there during an off night (Monday), so we missed the live music and the dancing, but we didn’t miss the jaw-dropping scenery (and the good beer at the Pub).
Mabou Mines trail, high above the town
This hike was straight up the mountain, and I may have complained a bit (maybe I should not have had the beer the night before…) but once I saw this view – it was SO worth it. This overlooks the Northumberland Strait, looking west towards Prince Edward Island.
…and that was just a foretaste…
We continued up the coast, planning to camp that night in Cape Breton Highlands National Park… but when we saw this lovely beach near Margaree, we needed to stop and walk in the sand.
We headed to Chéticamp, the last stop before the park, filled up on gasoline, and a few supplies (there is a yummy bakery there!) before heading into the Park. Once we were there, driving up the mountains on the Cabot Trail, it didn’t take long before we were completely amazed. We did the hike on the Skyline Trail – where you are almost guaranteed to see the Park’s famous inhabitants. And we did.
The first moose we met. A juvenile male, right in front of us on the Trail.
When you meet a moose, you play by their rules. While this guy was smaller than some of the others, he was still huge. He was about 10 feet ahead of us on the trail, and seemed to be more interested in the plants than us. So, we stood for awhile, waiting for him to move… and he didn’t, so we had to find a very circuitous route around him.
We were there at the perfect time of day ~ 5:30/6:00 pm when the sun was starting to set in the west. The scenery there left me in a state of awe. The ocean looked like silk, or like paper…
We camped at a little spot right off the Cabot Trail in the Park, near the beach on the western side of the island. It was called Corney Brook. We put up the tent as the sky was darkening overhead… storm was a’brewin’.
We made some friends that night – a group of campers were visiting from Ontario – and as the rain came down, we huddled up in the little shelter near our tents. We talked hockey and politics, all while playing card games and *ahem* drinking. It was so much fun.
We rose early the next morning, made plans to meet with our new friends again, and headed up to some other trails. Little did we know… that we would see a BEAR that day. There is no photographic evidence of this bear - I was a big chicken, and was scared to even move at all… and I didn’t want Kris to photograph it either. We were on the trail – completely alone, and here was Mr. Bear about 25 meters ahead of us, right in the middle of the trail. HE WAS BIG. Bigger than other black bears I have seen – about the height of a small horse or a donkey, but many times the weight and roundness. I remembered reading over the Bear Safety pamphlet at the Ranger office, so, I started clapping and singing. I made up a great little diddy, and before too long, he moved off to the right of the trail towards the nearby lake. I was constantly looking over my shoulder the whole way back, but I was so darn excited to see a bear!
“Bear” Trail, or so I called it.
I thought there was a chance of finishing up the Nova Scotia posts today, but yeah, there is still too much to say, and I don’t want the longest post ever… so, more tomorrow…
A few more photos from the Park:
Tomorrow: Remainder of the Island, Eastern Shore, and return to Halifax
I don’t think I’ve ever seen a French street sign in Halifax. It’s one of the first things I noticed when I moved here, because were I’m from (New Brunswick) it definitely is law
I’m truly stunned at the beauty of the area and how big the vistas are. That sky gives the sky in Utah a run for the money.
Thank you, thank you for sharing this trip!
Don’t worry about the continuing trip posts, but I think that the Canadian Tourism Board might owe you commission soon.
Wow, Lolly.. I can’t wait to visit Nova Scotia sometime soon! Thanks for your travel guide
Would you mind putting up a map of your route and any stops along the way? I think in maps.. 
my mom was a geography major so it’s rubbed off on me!
wow, those pictures are just incredible. so exciting that you saw a moose AND a bear!!!
I’m from a tiny village called Main-a-Dieu near Louisbourg. I don’t miss the economic depression or some of the social problems of the island but I do miss the summer scenery.
Great scenery shots. The sky is SO blue! How scary that you saw a bear. Good thing you both kept your heads!
Loving travelling along with you. The blue of the sky in some of these photos takes my breath away, can’t imagine what it would have done had I seen it in person!
Cape Breton is my favourite place in the whole wide world. In fact, I’m headed there in two weeks for a camping/hiking trip of my own. Your gorgeous photos are making it almost unbearable to wait. Skyline Trail, here I come!
You would make a great travel writer.
I know now that I MUST visit Nova Scotia. Your photographs are BEAUTIFUL!
I didn’t know you saw a bear!
Maybe you should have yodeled to scare it away. That’s what I would have done.
it just gets better and better! somewhere i really never would have though to visit!
Ooooh, I love the Rankins!
I didn’t know they owned a pub….
your pictures from this trip have been so amazing! i’m so jealous of your trip – what a beautiful part of the world.
Wow, its just gorgeous there! Its not someplace I would have ever thought to visit, but its definitely on my list now! Thanks for sharing your pics!
Looks lovely! Although I must ask, do you use a processing program to tweak your images or have you worked out the holy grail of white balance? Please share if you have!
Wow! some of your photos are *stunning*. What a great trip. I agree with above poster that it is not really a place I would have thought of visiting, but it’s definitely on the list now
I have never seen a coat line so breathtaking! What an awesome campsite you guys had. Fantastic photos, thanks for sharing!
Amanda
Great pictures. Just beautiful.
Holy cow, your photos are exquisite!!
Wow – your photos are just amazing! I can’t imagine such beauty exists! Very cool that you got to see a moose and bear! Scary to bet too!
Okay, I can’t stand it anymore. You make me want, very badly, to go there. But it’s out of the question this year. Did you know it would probably cost me twice as much to fly there from Ontario as it would cost you from D.C.? Sad but true.
Cape Breton Island is such an amazingly gorgeous place! It looks like you had great weather during the day, and great fun the night it rained!
Have you ever thought of selling some of your pictures to the Nova Scotia Department of Tourism? They are so beautiful, I’m sure they’d be happy to be able to use them to promote the province. It looks like you’ve convinced a few people already that it was a place to be seen!
You weren’t kidding. That place is gorgeous.
Ohhh, my God! Everything is so beautiful! That’s so scary that you saw a bear, too!
Wow Lolly! Thanks for sharing your latest travel adventure.
Stunning photos!! OMG a bear? I hiked through Alaska and never (thank god) came across one on my trail, although we knew they were “around.” Ran into lots of moose, though. What an exciting hiking and camping trip you guys had!
Your photos are just so beautiful.
Oh my gosh, you have totally sold me on Nova Scotia, it is high on my “to visit” list now. Just gorgeous…and probably easier for us to get to and plan for than Croatia, Scotland, Italy, or S. America! (other places that are big on my list). As usual, your photos are breathtaking.
)
Oh my, your photos are amazing. I’ve always wanted to travel to Nova Scotia, and now I want it even more.
I love living vicariously thorough your travels! This is my favorite of all. I’m hoping there is another N.S. trip in our future soon and now you’ve given me so many new places to see that we didn’t see the last time.
Thanks for sharing your travels with us! Novia Scotia is just so beautiful — it’s definitely in the top 5 on my travel wishlist.
I saw a number of bears while hiking and camping in Glacier National Park a few years ago, and the experience was both really neat and scary. As amazing as it is to encounter the big wildlife, I think I enjoy hanging out with bighorn sheep, mountain goats, marmots, and snowshoe rabbits even more.
Had to delurk to tell you your pictures are beautiful… although I’m biased – I grew up in Cape Breton
Your post made me homesick, but in a nice way – it’s always wonderful to hear people say such nice things about my home!
Oh Lord–that might be your best piece of travel writing ever! Such a pleasure to read:)
Lolly – Your photos are simply breathtaking. I can almost feel the crisp NS air. Enjoy your vacation.
Just incredible. That’s definitely an area I’d visit if I was in that part of the world. Your photos are so lovely.
And I love the moose shot! I long to see a moose. But I could do without the bear. People say Australia must be scary with snakes and spiders, but I think bears must be scarier. How hilarious that clapping and singing makes them move on! Is it a comment on your singing? he he
Your photos in this post are stunning! I love the one of “bear trail” and the last one of the cliff jutting out into the water. *sigh* It makes me want to pack my bags right now.
Also… I think we might have the same tent.
OH WOW!! Thanks for taking us along a beautiful trip. Gorgeous photos!!
Great pictures! I’ve been to Nova Scotia and its inhabitants are indeed the nicest people I have ever met.
Those pictures are stunning Lolly! Please post more – I can’t wait!
The moose is adorable (I’d love to see one in real-life), and the story about the bear is scary. Bears frighten me.
Love the pictures I’m going to show my hubby your blog I think this is where we need to go next. Its funny that you saw a bear on your trail, while hiking in the Smokey Mt. a few weeks ago my daughter-in-law (holding my 9 month old grandson) and I was walking ahead of our husbands and my other to grandsons when we came upon a black bear in the middle of the trail. We turned around and got the guys by the time we got back he was on the side. My grandsons (4 and 5) were so excided to see a bear but I was so worried that the bear would see us I tryed to take a picture but there was no bear in the picture. We did see a bear kill a baby moose while in Alaska a few years ago, I cried!
Stunning photographs, Lolly. I have a thing for high, treeless hills plunging into water. Sigh. Here we are planning for our next big trip to be to Italy, and now you’ve got me pining for the Maritimes! A fun dilemma to have, though…
I usually just lurk here, but I had to comment on how very beautiful your photography is.
awww, you made it to my motherland…
gorgeous pictures, makes me long for another trip out east.
Lovely! Awesome pictures!
Amazing photos as usual. Thanks
This trip and your photos are amazing! I especially love the one of you guys by the tent with the storm coming in. Incredible!
We honeymooned here, and your pictures bring me right back. Thanks for the trip down memory lane!
p.s. We finished our trip in Newfoundland….and the sights just got grander. I would highly recommend continuing your travels there on a future visit. Really magnificent!
Your pictures are absolutely gorgeous! I am so jealous.
Smiles!
These pictures are just so amazingly gorgeous. I’m sure the beautiful scenery helped, but you’re also a fabulous photographer! I would have been absolutely terrified if I’d encountered a bear, wow…I don’t blame you for not having photos of that!
Gorgeous! wow! Looks like you had a fabulous time!
Your photos are Breathtaking!!!!
[...] a contest there, but if you don’t read it, you should really check out Lolly’s blog. Lovely, lovely photography, occasional recipes (I want to try the baba ghanoush), and inspiring [...]
[...] NORTH is the least explored area in my own personal geography. The farthest north I have been? Cape Breton, Nova Scotia. Before that trip last year, Boston (or perhaps Montana – not sure about the latitudes) was the [...]
I have to say your photos are awesome. I grew up in Cape Breton and loved every single moment I spent there. I am going home this Aug with friends and family and I can’t wait. I miss the beauty of it and the force of the ocean. Your photos made me homesick but also gave me comfort. Thank you for sharing them.