Jun 18 2008
Historic Fort / Maritime Route
We left Cape Breton Highlands National Park having seen three moose (including an an unphotographed cow and calf right in the middle of the road - I am so glad we saw them!) and a bear. We were sincerely hoping for a whale sighting as well, but the storm clouds set in, and the day we planned to get out on the water was the day that it rained buckets. So, we traveled a little to the north to one of the most remote and purportedly beautiful places on the island: the oddly named Meat Cove.
One of the most northern points in the province. You follow a dirt road for many kilometers, all the while your mind thinking “is this right? we are in the middle of nowhere…” and then you happen upon this very small community. There is a campground there, and it would have been great to camp, but we wanted to get a little further on (and out of the rain). Maybe next time…
So, we headed south, spent the night in Ingonish at a nice inn, and headed out the next morning for lands south - and east. First we went inland to the Bras d’Or Lake region, surrounding Baddeck, home of one of Nova Scotia’s best yarn shops, Baadeck Yarns, and a great bakery, High Wheeler. (Yarn photos later!) We ran into our friends from the campground again (it really is a small world) and walked around the wharves and the docks.
That afternoon, we headed to Louisbourg, a fortress-turned-National Monument that was built by the French in the 18th-century. From Louisbourg, the French suffered several attacks from the British, and the fortress was sieged several more times, eventually falling in the 1760s. Reconstructed and employed by re-enactors, visitors can now see the fortress as it was before the large attacks - in its prime in the late 1750s.
We planned to camp near Louisbourg, but were disappointed to see that none of the campgrounds in the area accomodated tents (favoring RVs instead), and there were no restaurants open in the town. (The plusses and minuses of going in the “off-season”.) So, we regrouped, and headed south around the southeastern shore, and back to the mainland.
Spending the night near Sherbrooke, on the Eastern Shore, we got up early and planned to get out on the trails at some of the provincial parks.
We went around the small town of Sheet Harbour, and then headed to Taylor Head. We had the park to ourselves, well, except for this guy… The hikes worked up the appetite. A note to vegetarians: while it is not impossible to find vegetable dishes in rural Nova Scotia, it is challenging. However, many of the servers fielded my questions well, and there was often a salad choice - albeit kind of pale and out-of-season-looking. That being said, if you plan ahead, and maybe bring some of your own food, you will be fine. Kris, on the other hand, was in seafood heaven. This is the night he got a lobster.
After his feast, we headed to the nearby beaches of Clam Harbour and Martinique. Some of the widest and flattest beaches I have ever seen - and so pristine!
I thought it was a little chilly, but these brave girls jumped right in to the rising tide. We chatted with them for a little while, as well as a woman walking her adorable puppy. Just so relaxed and peaceful, and it shows on the peoples’ faces. We spent the night at Porters Lake Provincial Park - very nice campground, although there did seem to be a disproportionate amount of slugs (yep, found one in my shoe the next morning!)
We headed back into Halifax, and made it in time to catch the very enviable downtown farmers’ market. Ah, how nice. Too bad we were leaving the next day, or else this would have been the place to get some goodies!
We decided on a brewery tour, as well as a harbour nature tour. (They didn’t bill it as “Whale Watching” because of the chance that we may not see whales this far south…) The brewery tour was quite fun (more re-enactors! this time with mutton chops!) and we later boarded the Sea Tiger, the boat of New Dawn Charters. Once again, there is not a lot of photographic evidence to prove it, but we did see a minke whale. He was playing coy though, so every time he popped up, we would catch a glimpse, but not enough to shoot a photograph!
We ended our (free) time in Halifax with a nice dinner with Megan. It was great to start the trip with her, and then end it on that high note. I fell in love with Halifax all over again. Wow, what a province.
… we had a hard time getting home … (maybe I should think of it as Canada not wanting us to leave?) two canceled flights and sitting on the tarmac for six hours are not exactly fun, but I DID finish two books in that time. Funny thing is, I didn’t pack my knitting in carry-on because I was planning to get a nap on the plane. With that delay, I could have made a whole sweater!
And because I like maps - and some of you told me that you do too! - I thought it would be helpful to see our travels around the province:
The travels started in Halifax, in the middle of the province on the Atlantic coast, from there, we traveled clockwise (for the most part) around the province. The only area that we did not adequately explore is the western region that connects to New Brunswick. It was a little out of the way, and we were anxious to get north to Cape Breton. The blue dots on the map correspond with the photos that we took - here is the complete Flickr set of photos from Nova Scotia.
Once again, thank you so much for all of your amazing feedback! I think I enjoy sharing my travels through writing and photography almost as much as I do traveling! 
I’ve been on that Alexander Keith’s Brewery Tour! It *is* good beer! All these posts are really making me want to go back to Halifax soon (to my husband’s dismay…he’s more a fan of tropical vacations). The last time we were there I wasn’t a knitter yet so I missed out on all the incredible Nova Scotia yarn shops! Boo!
Not sure if you’ve heard, but Porters Lake has been ravaged by a massive forest fire. The fire is out now and the firefighters did a great job saving all of the area’s homes but two, however much of the wilderness is charred. Here’s one of the first stories about the fire: http://thechronicleherald.ca/News/1062108.html
Crazy, eh?
I spent part of a summer, when I was eight, on my aunt’s farm near Truro. It’s been a very long time since I’ve been to Nova Scotia, but you’ve brought it back to the front of my mind. I still have vivid memories of the Bay of Fundy, although technically I didn’t see it either! (Has *anyone* actually seen the Bay? It’s always socked in with fog!)
Thanks for posting the map—I could spend hours staring at maps, and I love that you highlighted yours with your route.
Thanks for sharing! It was great to follow you around Nova Scotia!
Canada would sure be happy to see you back! Maybe in Québec, next time? I’m sure you’d love the Eastern Townships - ok, that may be a bit opportunistic, as I’m moving there in a few weeks and would love to have the opportunity to meet you… but it truly is a lovely region, and I really think you’d like it! Actually, there are lots to see and enjoy all around the province, and hearing French spoken everywhere makes you feel like you are much farther from home than you really are… If ever you’d like to come up here, let me know: I’d be happy to help!
I love reading about your travels, and your pictures are fabulous. Thank you so much for sharing your adventure with us!
Oh! I so enjoyed the pictures of your trip! They are simply stunning. I sounds as though you had an amazing time!
I really enjoyed the photos and description of your trip. I’ve told you this before but I am so envious of your rich couple time. (Having a baby a month before our first anniversary didn’t allow my husband and I time like this.) Having two young children has its own amazing adventures and rewards but traveling like you’ve described probably won’t happen for us for at least another decade. So thanks for letting me live vicariously through you. Also, I had never even considered going to Nova Scotia, but you’ve piqued my interest!
wow you really covered alot huh! Your pictures are awesome, so glad you enjoyed our little part of the country. Next year PEI and NB????
i’m so super envious of this trip. i’ve wanted to visit Cape Breton for ages now but haven’t made it yet. looking at it all through your eyes/camera each day is a joy. thanks so much for sharing all the beauty and adventure of your trip. it just makes me want to go there all that much more!
I am LOVIN’ your Nova Scotian adventures! It is such a gorgeous place and your pictures are amazing. I did a cruise of Nova Scotia and your posts have taken me right back there. Heavenly.
I’m glad you got to see a whale! I always called the minke the slinky-minke because they do tend to “sneak” around a lot. Unpredictable and quick. And darn hard to photograph (although I have a few from back in the day).
Lolly, I’ve really enjoyed this travelogue. It brought back so many memories of Nova Scotia for me! When we lived in the DC area, we drove our own car and took ferries there, twice, and one other time all the way to Newfoundland, which is a whole different pleasure. The people are lovely, and it was such a welcome break from the energetic buzz of inside-the-beltway.
What a wonderful trip
Yay, you made it to Meat Cove. It’s called that because it was known as a great place to hunt. Too bad the whales didn’t make an appearance for you there. It’s a prime whale watching spot.
I’ve made loads of notes from your travels and will bring them with us when we leave next week. I’ll think of you when we’re there…
Wow, you really do make me want to go to Nova Scotia EVEN MORE NOW!!!!! It’s just too bad it’s waaaaaay on the other side of the coast for me.
But like I’ve said before, if you ever come out to the west, if you like the coasts of Nova Scotia, Vancouver Island is even better!
Though I love the green fields there. Very Scotland/Ireland like. Cool!
Thanks again for the photos and the write up!
Mary
Thanks for sharing. I have always wanted to go to Nova Scotia (and Newfoundland) but haven’t made it there yet.
I cannot express to you how much I have enjoyed your posts on Nova Scotia! I just moved here with my family (in the dead of winter no less!) six months ago and I am just starting to explore the beauty and adventure. Thank you for sharing your trip and all your gorgeous photography!
Just wanted to say that I am enjoying all your pics from your trip - I am on the complete opposite coast of the country, but I would love to make it to the maritimes at some point.
You did a great job of capturing all the beauty with your images!
I wish that I could travel as much as you! It’s so nice to see you travel and document it so well for us!
Lolly, thanks so much for sharing the trip with us - it felt just like taking a vacation yourself. It has certainly inspired me to bump Nova Scotia up to the top of the places to visit list.
Lolly, your pictures have decided it: we must go to Canada! These are seriously some of the most gorgeous landscape photos I’ve ever seen. The green lushness of it makes me thirsty in the June heat, too! Thank you so much for sharing this fantastic trip with us! Now to find out if my Israeli BF needs a visa to go to Canada….
What beautiful photos. Thank you for sharing your wonderful adventures and providing much inspiration!
Lolly, thank you for sharing your awesome trip report and photos. I’ve never considered Nova Scotia for vacation before, but this looks amazing. Mu husband and I are headed to Maine this summer, and it’s our first taste of the upper Northeast section of the US. You trip report reads like a guide book - maybe a new career path for you . . . ??
I’ve really enjoyed reading about and seeing photos from your trip! I’d never really thought about Nova Scotia as one of those “must go someday” places, but it’s definitely on my list now. Thank you for sharing!
I think that you and Chris should write travel books. You take the best pictures. You also give great details about the areas that you visit.
Wow - great photos! Takes me back to when I travelled there….thanks for sharing your travels….
Ah, the East Coast of Canada is an amazing place. Pity the Bay of Fundy was so foggy though. Your trip looks fantastic though and great fun. So glad you enjoyed your stay.
May I suggest the lure of Newfoundland and the iceberg run during the spring for your next tour of Canada? My husband is from the Avalon Peninsula, he says it is commonplace to stand in his father’s living room and look out the living room window over the hill to see the top of an iceberg floating peacefully along.
Awesome photos Lolly!
It has been so lovely to follow you trip through your photographs. It sounds like you two had an amazing time. Thank you so much for sharing your adventures!