Recently, Knitting Daily, Interweave Press’s daily newsletter, asked readers to choose some of their favorite designs published in Interweave Knits magazine to supplement their recent book, Best of Interweave Knits. With dozens of stellar designs represented, readers chose their TOP 5 favorites. …and guess who had not one but TWO designs represented? Ms. Norah Gaughan!  The Top 5 design patterns are available now through May 14th for FREE download in a PDF.  To promote this Readers’ Choice Award, Knitting Daily is setting up the top designers with some bloggers for a little one-on-one. 

I had the great opportunity to chat with Norah and find out some interesting details about her work, her inspirations, and what else she likes to do with her time…

As a designer who is inspired by nature and natural forms, how much time do you actually get to spend in nature? Can you share some of your favorite outdoor activities and / or memories?

Well, I live in New Hampshire Thursday night through Monday morning, and the Contoocook river is in my back yard – that’s nature. I grew up in the country too, climbing trees, walking through the woods to school, catching frogs in the brook. I nearly went crazy my first few months at Brown longing for the smell of Fall leaves. Turns out, crazy as it sounds, that the best place to commune with nature on the East Side of Providence is in the Swan Point Cemetery. As far as favorite memories go, I love being in places that feel like another world to me, where the flora is alien to someone who grew up in the northeast. For this reason I am fascinated by the Sonoran Desert in Arizona with all of the Saguaro cacti and desert scrub. Likewise, I am totally enamored of Iceland. Geysers, waterfalls, moonscape like lichen covered lava flows, hexagonal basaltic rock formations, gorges, and glaciers – it’s so amazing.

Norah’s trip to Iceland, photo by John Ranta

At the beginning of the year, you wrote a couple of blog posts about your Top 10 indispensable knitting books. Can you share some of your favorite general titles and authors? What was your favorite book growing up? Do you have (or make) time to read for pleasure now?

The book I read over and over as a child was The Secret Garden by Frances Hodgson Burnett. My grandmother (who lived with us) remembered loving it as a girl and bought me a beautifully illustrated edition original to her era. I also read a lot of Andre Norton. I had a writing correspondence with her too. My father illustrated Science Fiction and that’s how I made the contact. The best book I’ve read lately is The Omnivore’s Dilemma by Michael Pollan and I’m currently making my way through Evolution: The Triumph of an Idea by Carl Zimmer. It’s so well written that it’s is easy to read, despite being a science book. It’s going slowly only because I’ve been knitting an awful lot lately and I can’t do both at once. I did ‘read’ Freakonomics on tape while knitting – that worked out really well and recently I listened to all three autobiographical books by food writer Ruth Reichl. I love hearing works in the author’s own voice.

Norah knitting, age 17

When you have a concept for a new design, do you think in terms of lines and measurements? or do you sometimes have a color or texture in mind first and build a design around that? With the Tweedy Aran Cardigan, the texture of the tweed seems to be a large element in the design. When you design for Berroco do you choose the color and/or texture of yarn?

Which comes first, the chicken or the egg? It all depends. With the Tweedy Aran cardigan, the textured fabric came first. Then I had to dream up the best silhouette for that time and place. Color is almost always secondary for me, as a vehicle for showing off the pattern stitch or structure to it’s best advantage and to be wearable. There are times when the structure and shape of the garment comes before the swatch for me, like with the Sand Dollar Pullover from Knitting Nature. When I design for Berroco everything begins with the yarn – after all, [the reason] I’m there is to sell yarn and really, the same is true for editorials in Interweave and Vogue Knitting. I’m just luck that I get to express myself at the same time. [Photo: Alternate sketch using the sand dollar motif]

After a design is submitted and sent in for the photography shoot, possibly goes out for a trunk show exhibit, makes the rounds at the expos and markets, do you actually get to see it again? Do you know where the original Nantucket Jacket is now? Do you ever have the opportunity to wear your own designs?

At Berroco, after a design is photographed it first spends time with the tech editor and the pattern checker, then it’s shipped off to the TNNA trade show. After a few relaxing week’s sitting about the office it travels to yarn shops for 6 months, a year, or more. We are having second samples made in a larger size these days so many of the trunk shows have both the model size and the size that fits me. So, after the pieces have made the rounds, I do occasionally get to wear my own designs. I have no idea where the original Nantucket jacket is now, but somehow I managed to snag the Tilted Duster [Photo: Original sketch for the Nantucket Jacket]

Many thanks to Norah for sharing her art and design in so many mediums, and for taking the time to answer my questions!

…and be sure to check out the other stops on the blog tour!

Mon. April 14: Sandi Wiseheart interview on Smoking Hot Needles

Wed. April 16: Kate Gilbert interview on Moth Heaven

Thurs., April 17: Stefanie Japel interview on Chez Aristote

Fri., April 18: Evelyn Clark interview on The Panopticon

Have you knit one of Norah’s patterns?  are you currently working on one?  Tell us about it!  Leave me a comment and let me know!

…and this is what came of it:

“Knitting for Keeps: Jane Hutchins” Interweave Knits, Spring 2008

Many months in the works – and my copy of the magazine finally came. It is quite satisfying to see my name in the byline. That’s me: Lauren Weinhold. Page 16.

I had a series of phone interviews with Jane, who lives in British Columbia, in late October and early November. One of the most memorable interviews was conducted while Kris and I were away for the week in Williamsburg: I sat on a rock near the James River on Jamestown Island and learned all about textile conservation, raising Icelandic sheep, and the importance of caring for your textiles now.

Cover headline!

This is a big step for me. I have written since I was a child, and I was encouraged by family, teachers, and friends to write more. While I primarily wrote fiction as a child, I have switched to writing primarily non-fiction since college. I enjoy the in-depth research and putting the words together. I even enjoy the editing process… maybe this is the beginning of something bigger, but in the meantime, I am just going to be happy that Jane’s story and her work could be showcased in this way. I hope that you are able to take something away from the article too: you spend so valuable money and time to make your textile crafts beautiful – why not ensure that they will last? on that same note, you can learn how to better care for the textiles that have been passed down to you!

Thank you Avice for introducing me, Eunny for accepting the pitch, and finally to Jane for the amazing work that you do!

… … …

Another big first: I am nearing a landmark comment number over the next few posts, and I am thinking that it would be really fun to celebrate it by thanking you with some presents from my yarn and book stash! So, for three of you – the -999, -000, -001, – I have three gifts. The -000 comment will get first choice, and the -999 and -001 can decide which items they like after that. I do hope it works out

1) My favorite sock yarn in a gorgeous red colorway – so pretty and perfect for Project Spectrum! 450 yards of Tess Designer Yarns‘ Super Sock and Baby yarn. This yarn has held up so well for me in the two pairs of socks I have made with it. I think you will love it too!

2) Denyse Schmidt Quilts and a Quilt-It Kit by Denyse Schmidt – the book is full of inspirational quilts sewn with beautiful fabrics. The kit is complete with items to make a log-cabin style pillow with a cute yellow and aqua fabric. A perfect place to start your quilting adventures, or to continue with your hobby! (You can see some of her designs made by some of my Flickr friends)

3)Yarn Place Graceful in #3627 colorway – if you scroll down on the website, you can see a knitted lace sample of this same colorway – so pretty! I bought this yarn a few months ago but I still have no idea what to do with it – I don’t knit lace very often – but I know that a lot of you do.

LollyKnitting Around is the third stop on Sandi’s tour, and I was excited to hear what she had to say the newest knitting venture of Interweave Press. Read on…

What prompted the formation of Knitting Daily?

We started planning Knitting Daily about a year and a half ago, when a group of us at Interweave started dreaming about ways that we could bring the Interweave sense of community, technical excellence, and style to the web in a more accessible, more fun-to-visit sort of way. We did our homework, looked at a zillion other sites across all industries, and had a lot of fantasy brainstorming “what-if” sessions. It was a lot of fun, and we gave ourselves permission to dream big! One of the most important things we all wanted to do was to build a place online where we could have conversations with our Interweave readers in a more direct, more immediate, and more fun, sort of way. We constantly refer to ourselves and our readers as “the Interweave Family,” and we felt very strongly that we wanted to provide an online “home” for the knitting branch of that family. Then we set about furnishing that home with a library, a newsletter, and made sure we built in room to grow so we can build on additions and make improvements as we go along.

What can Knitting Daily offer to a beginning knitter who may be intimidated by the projects in the magazine?

In the Knitting Daily blog, as well as in the Techniques section, we have the ability to really break things down into smaller steps–I can post step-by-step photos of how to do a particular stitch, for example. Beginners can also search the site by skill level, and find patterns and information that is suited to their knitting comfort zone.

Plus, they can ask questions, and the Knitting Daily staff can answer back! Right now, there are some beginners asking questions in the comments on the blog, and as you read through the comments, you can see the more seasoned knitters answering them back! I love that part. I can’t wait until we get our forum installed and ready to go…..

Did I mention that one of our KD staffers is a beginning knitter? Yep. Kat, our graphics guru, is just learning, so she’s particularly keen on making sure that we have plenty of good stuff for beginners. I’m hoping to have a whole series of posts especially for beginners in the not-to-distant future.

Knitting Daily is still in the new stages; what features will the site offer in the future?

We have so much on our to-do list! We joke about it in the office: “Oh, that will have to be a Phase Ten addition.” We are sooo excited about the possibilities that a site like KD affords us. First up is going to be the Knitting Daily Pattern Store, which will be going live sometime this month (July). We’ll be able to offer patterns from sold-out issues, as well as new patterns exclusive to KD…. Interweave has a very large “catalog” of knitting patterns spanning all our publications, and with the Pattern Store, we will be able to provide wider access to all those treasures. Now we will! High on everyone’s list here is a forum, where we can have discussion threads for each of the Interweave knitting patterns (and other hot fiber topics!). This will make it so much easier for everyone to be notified about corrections, receive help with a particular pattern, and just share photos and tips. I love watching everyone talk to each other in the comments, so I am really looking forward to seeing folks be able to “talk” with each other in a more organized, more direct way soon.

We’ve all got long wishlists, as I say….and we welcome hearing what the readers’ wish lists are–because ultimately, it’s all about our readers! What our readers want is very, very important to us. That’s part of the joy of Knitting Daily right now–being able to respond so quickly to give readers what they ask for, without having to wait a full press cycle of six months or more. I love that!

How will Knitting Daily integrate with Interweave’s other new media approaches, i.e. the television show?

KnittingDailyTV came about when Interweave bought the Shay Pendray Needle Arts Studio (opens to a .pdf) show on PBS. Starting with the 2007-2008 season, we are giving it an “Interweave makeover”– new sets, new show website, new graphics, new content, and a new focus on knitting. The TV show’s website will be a sister website to KnittingDaily.com, just as InterweaveKnits.com is a sister site to Knitting Daily. And just like sisters talk about each other, and share the best of their lives, we online Interweave sisters will talk about each other and share good stuff between ourselves. But we’re very new sisters, so we’re still getting to know each other. I have to confess that I am really fascinated to see what Interweave does with its first TV show–so exciting!

The recent modifications you made to the Tomato sweater intrigued many readers. Do you plan to offer more personal tips and tutorials like this on the site?

Yes! I come from a long line of storytellers in my family, and I almost can’t help myself, as far as personal stories go…and the explosion of popularity of knitting blogs tells us that knitters connect deeply with stories and storytellers. All that aside: I personally have been floored by the outpouring of enthusiasm in the comments! I read those to myself in the evenings after work, and it’s a huge treat. Since I am really committed to listening to what the readers want, if what the readers want is more of the kind of thing I’m doing with the Tomato, then more they shall get.

Free “Tomato” pattern (from the new Interweave book, No Sheep for You) and Sandi’s modified version with bust darts!

What is your background? How were you prepared to take on a big project like Knitting Daily?

You might say I have a varied background Craft-wise, I have been knitting since I was tiny–I knit my first cardigan at age ten. I also crochet, spin, weave, do beadwork, and I was so obsessed by quilting at one point that I had my hand-stitched quilts in a show. I learned to sew and customize sewing patterns from my mom and a really awesome home-economics teacher (Mrs. Sweet, yes, that was her real name). Handcrafts are as essential to my life as good coffee and chocolate. As a child and teen, whenever someone asked where I was, my family would say, “Oh, she’s probably off making something somewhere.”

I went to grad school to train to be a clinical therapist–I joke that this was perfect preparation for being managing editor of Interweave Knits, the job I had before becoming editor of Knitting Daily. Managing editors are kind of the air traffic controllers of the magazine crew–I worked out the schedule for each issue, made sure that all the sweaters for that issue traveled from designer to editor to stylist to photoshoot to tech editor to editors again, coordinated the work flow between editors, authors, graphics folk, and production people…plus I was designing things for the mag, writing intros and articles, doing some tech-editing, and knitting socks in meetings. Oh, and I was also managing editor for Interweave Crochet and Knitscene during that same time period, so our team was doing 8 issues a year at that point. It’s a very hard-working team! There were days I wished I could wear roller skates to work so I could move around the office more quickly. During that time, one of my favorite things was to talk to the web people and come up with ways we could put little bits of the magazines online….so Knitting Daily is really an organic outgrowth of all of those conversations.

Wow! Did you learn as much as I did?! It is such an exciting time! The TV show, the pattern forums, the free patterns: so much to look forward to as an avid knitter. Since Knitting Daily went “live” in the middle of June, I have looked forward to the daily emails from Sandi. It usually hits my inbox after dinner, so it is almost like a dessert

You can read archived posts (I found the Sock Survey particularly intriguing!) and some beautiful free patterns. Two of the recent releases were already added to my TO-DO list…

Intricate Stag Bag and the Ballet Twinset

…and Sandi offers one last tidbit…

Just a sneak preview ahead… I’ve gotten tons of emails about the Summer Shawlette and the Comfort Shawl. Lots of those emails are from breast cancer survivors or family and friends of survivors. Since there are some technically intriguing bits about knitting those shawls, and since lace is endlessly fascinating, AND since both shawls are fairly good introductory lace projects for beginning lace knitters, I want to write about those shawls next.

I also have an exclusive Teva Durham pattern that we will feature on Knitting Daily in August….there’s so much good stuff ahead. So if you like what I’m doing on Knitting Daily, let me know….and if you have some suggestions or ideas, let me know those as well! Email me at knittingdaily@interweave.com!

THANK YOU SANDI!

Monday Ready, Set, Knit! Podcast

Tuesday Crazy Aunt Purl

Thursday DoggedKnits

Friday CRAFT Blog

Mona's fabulous pattern Embossed Leaves was featured in the Winter 2005 issue of Interweave Knits, and immediately became a hit in the blogosphere – Embossed Leaves were everywhere. Mona recently published another sock pattern in the Fall 2006 IK, and there is more to come in the Holiday 2006 edition! She has also had designs in Knitscene.

When I asked Mona about a blog interview, she kindly agreed… she is just sweet like that! She has even prepared TWO tutorials, hosted on her blog, that help with the Embossed Leaves pattern.

Two-Strand Tubular Cast-On (Part One and Part Two)

Adapting the Embossed Leaves pattern for different sizes

Can you tell me more about your design process?

Designing socks is more an intuitive conception – often I just start with the yarn I feel like knitting with and cast on. Sometimes I have a certain stitch pattern in mind, other times I just start knitting and get the idea for the pattern while still working at the cuff. I do design other things than socks, but since this is Socktoberfest let’s concentrate on those.

Where do you find your design inspiration?

Especially for socks it is often a stitch pattern I like and has a stitch repeat that’s good for socks – and if it doesn’t fit right away, I’ll make it fit. Funnily enough I do think of people, too, when designing. It’s rather like: If I would knit a sock for so-and-so, what would it look like?

Your Embossed Leaves socks are so intricate and beautiful – how did this idea come to you?

I had seen the leaf pattern on the cover of a book (I actually bought that book just because of the pattern! It’s called Beautiful Knitting Patterns, by Gisela Klöpper) and knew right away that I wanted to use it for socks. Then Regia Silk came my way and I had just tried the tubular cast-on. It was an easy calculation. The kicker was of course the toe. My Mom had just written the instructions for me. I had never used it before. (Admittedly, I was a one-trick pony when it comes to socks, same heel and toe forever, till I realized that there are so many possibilities to mix it up!) Once the foot had the length I thought would fit me I just started knitting the toes as instructed. It really was a lucky coincidence that the star fit the pattern to portray the whole leaf at the end of the sock. Honestly, I couldn’t have planned it any better. Now it sounds preposterous even to me but I only realized that it looked like a completed leaf once the sock was done. The reason it was knit in Koigu (lovely, lovely yarn!) for the magazine is that at that time Regia Silk was not readily available in the US.

When did you first knit socks?

I only started to knit socks when I was 21. I knit my first pair to match a wool sweater I owned (store bought, from ESPRIT). I still have the socks while the sweater is long gone. After finishing these there was a long break and no sock knitting for me. When I started my second pair I was studying and living away from home. Came the time to turn the heel I couldn’t remember how for the life of me. I never had written any instruction down, because if I had a question I would ask my Mom, who was always available and she was and still is pretty much a walking talking knitting dictionary. She’d say: “now you knit 2 together and knit to the end, next needle knit to the last 2 sts and do ssk…” That’s how I learned from her even when I was little, she’d let me knit a row or round and then tell me how to go from there. And I would find afterwards that I had turned a heel, knit a gusset or, when I was like 11 years old, knit a vest for a doll. Strangely enough it worked. Well, most of the time. She had to explain the heel turning once more.

My most precious possession to date is a pair of socks my then boyfriend Rolf knit for me. One of the socks has hearts knit into it and the other my name. Makes me smile every time I think of or look at them. Oh, and no, he hasn’t knit a thing since.

Do you have any designs in the works now?

Oh, there are always designs in the works. Finished are the “Bells and Whistles Socks” in the Holiday '06 edition – and I do have some socks at home that might get published one time or another. Then there’s my work for JCA where I did and do design garments, published this Fall, next Spring and hopefully a lot more seasons to come.

Thank you so much, Mona, for being a part of Socktoberfest!

As you can see, your design is quite popular!  These are a random sampling of Socktoberfest participants who have made your Embossed Leaves – so many colors and adaptations!

If you see yours, let me know   I did a random search and came up with all of these!

*****

Now you have to help me decide which of these lovely yarns I should use for Mona's amazing Embossed Leaves socks, one of my next projects in the queue:

Let me know what you chose by leaving a comment! 

I will knit the socks in the yarn with the most votes

Cookie's design aesthetic clings to traditional motifs and patterning and adds a very modern edge. Cookie agreed to share some of her inspirations, the story behind "The Leg", and gives a tutorial on her lovely new sock-in-progress, the German stockings, in honor of Socktoberfest!

Who are your knitting gurus? Do you admire the designs of someone in particular?

Eugen Beugler and Lew Deyong are two knitters I turn to for inspiration and advice.

• Gene showing off one of his many lace pieces
• Lew carrying around The Leg!

They are both avid lace knitting octagenarians and are an invaluable source of information. And they're charming to boot! Gene has quite a few designs under his belt, including the Frost Flowers and Leaves shawl, and Lew is into "big things" on itty bitty needles. For example, he even knit a bedspread on size 1 needles!

I love Gene and Lew! Besides the two of them, my favorite handknitting designers are Marianne Kinzel and Herbert Niebling for their intricate and organic lace patterns. I also love knitwear designs from Delphine Wilson, Jean Paul Gaultier and Alexander McQueen.

Your Pomatomus socks and Hedera socks are quite the hit! Do you have some other interesting designs up your sleeve?

I have tons of design ideas! Unfortunately most of them are still in my head because I can think faster than knit. I recently finished a couple designs for Blue Moon Fiber Arts using their wonderful yarns. There is a new pattern in the upcoming Winter Knitty. And I am working on a few things that I hope to publish through my blog. This coming year, I would like to get off my butt and submit some designs to the print magazines.

I already posted on the blog about two of the patterns I hope to write up–a short sleeved sweater and the German stocking.

The other one is this previously unseen sock:

What's with the mannequin? It seems like a great prop! Where did you pick up this random leg?

I actually feel very bad about the leg. I borrowed it from a friend for the Pomatomus pictures, and I haven't seen my friend since. I am a horrible thief! The idea came to me when I was trying to think of a clever way to photograph Pomatomus without making it look obvious that I had only knit one! I later bought a full body mannequin, but the legs on that are horribly misshapen with ginormous insteps and flat calves. So in all, I have three fake legs (one of which is not mine) and two real ones.

Where do you get your design inspiration from?

The main inspiration for my designs come from fashion (non-knitwear) and intricate traditional knitting. I am drawn to complicated stitch patterns and finer gauge yarns. At the same time, I find that modern ideas of shape and form can be visually striking, but the structure is often emphasized by use of plain fabric or materials. My general goal is to combine new ideas of shape with the more intricate detailing of traditional knitting. I like to play with spirals, curves and traveling panels along with texture and stitchwork.

What's in the future for handknit socks?

I am hoping to see more knee high socks. I especially like them because there is just so much more you can do, design wise. But at the same time, the shaping and placement of everything gets much more complicated, which can be difficult to write a pattern around. I also hope socks get more creative, with different constructions than the standard toe-up or top-down. And, of course, I hope to see more twisted stitches in everything!

*****

Cookie's newest design, called the "German stockings", is a perfect combination of these intricate traditional cable motifs, and the modern shaping techniques. Although still in the works, Cookie plans to write this pattern for distribution. I can hardly wait! This beautiful design really speaks to me!

Cookie shares an in-depth tutorial of her design process on her blog, Knitters Anonymous. In conjunction with that wonderful tutorial, Cookie answered a few questions about this specific design.

Where did you find the inspiration for this cable pattern?

The inspiration came from traditional German stockings that are very intricate and detailed. I am also drawn to asymmetry and curves or travelling panels. I wanted a sock that captured both elements. And of course, I wanted a knee-high sock.

How did you adapt the cable patterning to the sock?

After looking at pictures of several German stockings, I had an idea of what shape and elements I wanted to use and how I wanted to simplify many of the main features of the traditional German stockings. I don't know how to give a quick answer to this question! I think looking at the tutorial I wrote up will give a more in depth explanation.

Do you do all of your cabling without a needle?

It depends on the yarn and the cable. Whenever I can get away with it, I avoid the cable needle because it's just one more thing for me to lose! But I do use a cable needle for cotton or other slippery yarns, cables that require two cable needles (the double crossing kind), or when I'm knitting laceweight yarn.

Click on the picture below to take you to Cookie's tutorial

Thank you Cookie for being a part of Socktoberfest!

So, for the future sock knitters out there – maybe you can join us for Socktoberfest 2007? – here is a great way to practice circular knitting techniques on circular needles and double-pointed needles, and you will be ready to wield the needles for socks very soon!

For this tutorial, I had the great opportunity to talk to Lisa Shobhana Mason, blogger at My Life in Stitches, and author of the new book, Yarnplay. Included in this post: some questions, answers, and helpful hints on knitting in the round for accessories and garments, as well as a preview of her lovely new book!

Do you prefer to knit garments in the round rather than separate pieces that need to be seamed?

I definitely prefer knitting pullovers in the round. I started doing this early on in my knitting career as a means to avoid sewing up seams. Now I don't mind seaming so much (mattress stitch can be a girl's best friend!). In fact, I find it very soothing. However, i still knit my pullovers in the round!
What tips do you have for beginners who have never worked with circular needles or with double-pointed needles?

A chunky hat is a good place to start, as you get to work with both a circular and DPNs and the stitches are big enough that you can see what's going on and can keep a good grip on your work. The most important thing is to be careful that your stitches don't get twisted during the first couple of rounds.

Is there a special trick that you have to join the work? No special tricks, really. When you join the yarn should be coming from the point or needle (in the case of DPNs) on the right.

What kind of needles do you prefer when working in the round?

I prefer metal needles, both double points and circular, as my knitting is on the tight side. If you're a loose knitter you'll do better with wood or bamboo, as they keep the stitches from slipping.

Another great project to do in the round: armwarmers, such as the adorable Austin Armwarmers, featured in YarnPlay! …and the other great thing about the armwarmers? They are the perfect way to use up leftover yarns – especially the fun self-striping/handpainted sock yarns!

…and because Shobhana loves us, she shared her helpful hints on how to convert a standard seamed pullover into a knit-in-the-round garment!

You'll need a circular needle between 24 – 32" in length depending upon the size of the sweater (the larger the size, the longer the needle).

• Cast on the total # of sts for both the front and the back, placing ring makers between the back and the front.
• Join, being careful not to twist.
• Proceed with the pattern, keeping in mind that on each round you are working 1 row of both the back and the front. If the pattern calls for any side shaping, you will be working it before and after each of the markers. You can continue in the round until you reach the armholes.
• Seperate the front and back, placing half the stitches on stitch holders. You will work the back and front seperately. After you have completed one side, put the remaining stitches back on the needle, join yarn and continue.

Sleeves can also be knit in the round. Cast on using double-pointed needles. Use a ring marker to mark the beginning/end of the round. Join, being careful not to twist. Shaping will be worked just before and just after the marker. You can continue in the round until the armhole bind offs, then you will be working on both sides of the fabric. The best part is that you don't have to sew up the sleeve and side seams!

I find that handpainted yarns have a more interesting look on sweaters that are knit in the round. For me, the color seems to have a bit more flow. This method works best with simple patterns.

Shobhana relates this method to the sweater in the book, aptly titled the Everything But The Kitchen Sink pullover, as it is knit with about 37 different colors and textures of predominantly aran weight yarns.

The more colors and textures, the better! The yardage of each yarn can vary from as little needed to complete one round to a full skein that you will use throughout the sweater. In order to keep your gauge correct the majority of yarns should meet the stated gauge. You can knit an occasional round with a yarn that is slightly lighter or heavier. This occasional deviation from gauge produces an interesting texture. However, you should not use these yarns for more than 2 rounds at a time. When joining a new yarn overlap it with the previous yarn and knit with both for 3 or 4 stitches, cut the first yarn leaving a 2" tail and continue knitting with the new yarn.

…And since this is Socktoberfest… I just had to learn more about Shobhana's sock knitting habits and history…

I was completely lost when i took a sock knitting class way back when. I had been knitting for a couple of months and I was really intrigued with the idea of knitting socks, but I didn't get it. I just couldn't wrap my brain around it. At that time, I discoved a simple pattern for a worsted weight sock at my LYS and with a little coaching from the shop owner a light went on and magic happened! I knit my first pair over the course of a weekend and i was thrilled! I felt like a real knitter!

Shobhana's Socktoberfest sock-in-progress!

I like Trekking and Opal. I've amassed quite a stash of sock yarn which includes Cherry Tree Hill, Lorna's Laces, Scout's Knitted Swag, and bunch of other skeins that I can't quite recall. I knit about 1.5 pairs per year, so i think i have enough yarn to get me well through the next couple of decades! (See her completed socks!)

Thank you, Shobhana, for stopping by and sharing your expertise and stories!

In the meantime, check out her lovely new book, YARNPLAY, just out on bookshelves. The book has some lovely accessories, knits for the home, a whole chapter on finding color inspirtation, and my personal favorites: the sweater patterns! Feast your eyes!

1. Edie Assymetrical Cardigan, 2. Poppy Pullover,
3. K.I.S.S. sweater, 4. Lorelei Tank

*****

Check out the other blog tour stops for Yarnplay:

Sunday 10/22 – Knitting Aloud Monday 10/23 -Lolly Knitting Around Tuesday 10/24 – Knit And The City Wednesday 10/25 -Purl Jam Thursday 10/26 – My Life In Stitches Friday 10/27 – Serendipity Saturday 10/28 – Scout's Knitted Swag

She has written three books specifically about sock knitting (Folk Socks [1997], Knitting on the Road [2001], and Knitting Vintage Socks [2005] ) and has written many articles and designs for various books and magazines. Nancy's work now focuses primarily on the knitting traditions and heritage of Estonia. All of this while she teaches workshops around the country, designs for a myriad of publications, and runs the day-to-day business of The Wooly West!

She kindly agreed to do two interviews with me last week in honor of Socktoberfest: one over email, the other over the telephone.

Do you recall your very first pair of socks? How did you learn to knit socks?

My first pair of socks were for my Dad and I cast on so tightly that he never liked wearing them. I think it was one of the first times I had used small (#1) needles! Now I teach several ways to last on loosely for socks. I taught myself to knit socks from a rare (in those days – the early 80's) pattern I found – don't remember where it came from.

How has your background in Art History affected your research, writing, and design of socks?

I always want to know about the history of anything I am interested in, be it knitting socks or some kind of food. I like to find out how it came to be and about the place it was created. I specialized in Japanese Folk Art in college and then went to the other side of the world for my career! My Art history studies taught me how to research and also to take photos that tell a story. I think it has been a great help in what I do now.

What was the biggest challenge you faced when compiling and adapting the patterns in Knitting Vintage Socks? The nineteenth-century patterns are so intricate, it must have been a real task to match them with modern yarns, needles, and knitting techniques.

I think the biggest challenge was spending day after day reading small gray type. It is the kind of type one tends (wants to) to overlook, but I had to read it word for word and sort out what the patterns were telling me to do. It became easier as I went along. There was no mention of weight or yardage for any of the yarns, nor gauge, so I had to rely on what I know the yarns would do and how the patterns could be changed or adjusted to work with them.

In Knitting on the Road, you point to the weaving school in Dalarna, Sweden as the place where you really learned to knit. Did the weaving school help you understand knitting technique and practice better? What did you learn there that you did not know about knitting before?

When I went to Sweden, I knew how to knit and purl, but not how to cast on (someone always did that for me…don't ask me why I let that go on for so long) Anyway, when I was in Sweden, all the girls in the school were knitting in the evenings – usually in a dark room with the TV on – and knitting intricate color patterned sweaters.

I wanted to learn everything I could during my time there (I also did spinning, lace making, felting by hand -no washing machines for us- and nålbinding) and knitting was a part of the whole experience. Except, I discovered that knitting was more than an interesting textile technique and had a very long history. It was the 'everyman's (or woman's) craft, not requiring a lot of equipment and success could be achieved rather quickly (once one learned how to cast on!!) I saw so many amazing knitted things in the museums and it was there that I discovered how really wonderful knitting is! By the way – it took me about 5 minutes to learn to cast on and it was the beginning of the rest of my life!

With your business, designing, and your workshop teaching, do you have any time to knit for pleasure? If so, what are you currently working on?

Right now, nope – knitting is always a pleasure, but I haven't had time to knit just for me in a very long time. Between creating new classes (for Camp Stitches and SOAR, coming up in a few weeks) and writing and designing for PieceWork Magazine for every issue for the last 3 years, and the occasional other designs and working on a book – time to knit for me is way off the radar.

I do think about 'retirement' fondly, thinking I may have time to knit all the things I have wanted to try but had no time – its very hard it imagine not being so busy!

What is next for Nancy Bush? do you have some new designs and a book "up your sleeve"?

Well…I have been working on and off for a few years researching Estonian knitted lace. Now I am hoping to be completely immersed in it for the next year, the result will be my next book. I am so interested in Estonia and their knitting, it is really all I want to be doing, most of the time, so this next year should be a good one for me.

Question from Socktoberfest participant, PrimitiveSpirit: How do you choose color for your sock designs? Are you inspired by the color, the wool? What is the process?

Sometimes I am inspired by colors I have seen in nature, sometimes because the yarn is so beautiful and sometimes because I know it will photograph well. I won't knit with a color I don't like, just like I never use a yarn I don't like. I think we need to enjoy the process all the way, and colors that are hard on the eyes or yarns that make the fingers ache, for whatever reason, just aren't worth it.

What is one of the most exciting stories that you have encountered in your research?

Nancy graciously agreed to do a recording where she tells of her sock knitting experience at the home of Tasha Tudor, a well-known and much-loved American children's book illustrator.

Nancy's Memorable Sock Story (a portion of my phone interview with Nancy, in .mp3 format) You can also read the transcript of her sock story here.

(Please forgive the low-tech equipment and the slight echo!)

*****

Thanks for this opportunity. Good luck with your 'fest'!
Best,
Nancy

Thank you, Nancy! Happy Socktoberfest!

I have to say, I could not quite get a feel for it, and my mind kept on thinking about all of the knitting I had on my list.  However, this holistic sheep to sweater (or shawl, or sock) approach is so organic to me; about connecting with many generations past, bringing tradition to everyday life.  Who knows, maybe I will "give it (another) whirl" one of these days…

I know so little about spinning, but I have learned some of the terminology from friends on the blogs, and in my knitting group. However, that is the great thing about the book – there are some helpful photographs and drawings that really demonstrate the process of spinning.  Several of the people in my group are also spinners, and I decided to bring Spin to Knit to our meeting last week. We came up with some fun questions for Shannon!

Erin asks: "What kind of fibers should one use that are easy enough for a  beginner to spin, yet durable enough to hold up after some wear?  I  knit socks particularly, and I would love to know more about what I can do to make my yarn last longer."

Shannon: Look into a blended fiber, and/or superwash wool. Superwash merino is soft, it won't shrink, it takes dye really well, and the items I've spun and knitted from it have held up nicely. Of course, you can use a nylon knit-along thread in the high-wear portions of the sock (heel, toe) for a little extra insurance, but if you enjoy blending your own fibers, you could also experiment with different mixes. I haven't tested this out yet, but I suspect if you carded superwash wool and hairdresser's rayon together, you could spin a really durable sock yarn. In Spin to Knit, there's an entire sweater by Shoshana Mathews spun of hairdresser's rayon — that roving-like stuff salons use to keep drips off your face during hair color and perms.

Word to the wise: if you do want to experiment with your own custom fiber blends for something high-wear like socks, don't spin and knit it all at once. Spin and knit a sample swatch small enough to fit inside your shoe, under an existing sock, and walk around on it for a day or two. If it's utterly destroyed, chances are that particular blend might not be sock-optimal! If it looks good — proceed!

Laura asks: "What is the best to learn on: spindle or wheel?   Many people start on the spindle, and this has helped me.  What did you start with?"

Shannon: I don't think one is better than the other (I learned on a wheel – my first was an Ashford Kiwi). But I broke my elbow really badly a few years ago, and spindling is difficult for long periods of time, so I'm an exception to the usual order of things. Most people recommend spindles first because they cost less. They're a low-commitment way to find out if you actually like spinning before you invest several hundred dollars in equipment and materials. But then again, I also find that successful spindle-spinners have an easier time transitioning to the wheel than the reverse… In short: if someone gifts you a wheel, don't say "no thank you, I can't even spindle yet" — take it and run!

Coleen asks, "Do you prefer a spindle for some projects/fibers and a  wheel for others?"

Shannon: As I mentioned above, I have a hard time spindling because of my elbow, which is permanently damaged from an accident. If I need to quickly check out a fiber, or take something super-portable along to a fiber show, I'll bring a spindle in my bag. But many people I know like to use the spindle for finer fibers, which they then ply together on their wheel.

Jen asks: "What kind of projects work best with plied yarns?  What projects are better with singles?  Do you have any preferences?"

Shannon: I like singles, particularly overtwisted ones, because I enjoy the biased-fabric effect they give in circular knitting (and just about everything I knit is circular — I'm a big sweater and hat knitter). Plied yarns are good when you want to get cool multicolor effects from a hand-dyed roving: check out Lynne Vogel's book The Twisted Sisters Sock Workbook for ideas, it's really inspirational. But plied vs. not plied is really a matter of preference. I readily admit that I am lazy, and if I knit with singles, I don't have to spin twice or three times as much in order to get enough yarn to knit!

All (in unison):  Have you dyed roving before?  What techniques did you use, if so?  Did you end up spinning with that freshly dyed roving?

Shannon: Oh yes — check out this article I wrote for Knitty.com's KnittySpin. That's how I dye 95% of the time — and the rest is either for tiny amounts (in the microwave), experimental (in the oven, in an oven bag), or in a class where the teacher is doing it the "right" way (steaming on a stovetop).

The hat on the cover of Spin to Knit is actually made from the very first roving I ever dyed that way! Set your TiVo for back episodes of Crafters Coast to Coast on HGTV (I think they changed the show name to That's Clever, but don't quote me on that) — I demoed dishwasher dyeing on an episode set in Cleveland, where I live.

Wanna peek inside the book? 

Since it is the season, I have to show you the handspun socks!

The handspun sock pattern is courtesy of PippiKneeSocks.

Thank you so much Shannon! You can read all about the book, and Shannon's blog tour and book tour stops on the Spin to Knit website.  Next up, Shannon will be chatting it up with Crafty Chica on her blog and her podcast! And all of you rabid swap fans need to check out the Secret Pal Handspun Swap organized by Interweave Press! This looks like a great time

For the DC/VA/Maryland crowd:  Shannon will be visiting us this weekend!  She has two stops – on Saturday, see her at Stitch DC, and on Sunday, she will be at Wool Winders in Rockville.  I am hoping to make it to one of these (not sure which one yet!)

This is REVIEWS week for Socktoberfest, so pull out your yarn, look at your book collection – I will be asking you some questions in the next post!

I enjoyed the Diagonal Fixation pattern, but could not quite "wrap" my head around the whole short-row concept. I had only knit heel flaps before this sock, and have not attempted another short-row heel, although I have admired many-a-knitter's beautiful handiwork. Why no short-row love? Simply put, it is those unsightly holes!

Luckily, I had someone to turn to.  Lisa Kartus is the author of Interweave Press's new book, Knit Fix: Problem Solving for Knitters. The book is an amazing reference on how to fix everything from dropped stitches, twisted stitches, incorrect cables, wrong colors in colorwork, and everything you can think of in between. And yes, short rows are included. However, Lisa was kind enough to attack my little problem "head on" with a personal response! She is launching a new website, Knit Maven, where readers can submit problems and common mistakes; and Lisa will post how to fix the mistakes, as well as showing some pictures of the work.

Lisa's website features some great fixes (how to fix a missed YO in a lace pattern!), and she was kind enough to help several other knitters with their mistakes during her two-week blog tour.  LollyKnitting Around is the last official stop on the blog tour.

You can read (and even listen to some podcasts!) about Lisa's career, her handy tips for fixing mistakes, and learn more about her future plans on the Knit Fix Blog Tour website.

Those diagonal holes might be from your short-rowing and might not. 

The trick to short rows on a sock heel is to make sure you've closed the gap at the end of each row with either a K2tog or P2tog.The most common pattern for turning a heel asks you to do something like knit or purl to a couple of stitches past center, then either K2tog, K1 and turn work; or P2tog, P1 and turn work. The next row ends with either K2tog, K1 or P2tog, P1. Those decreases — K2tog or P2tog — create a little gap at the end of your rows. In all succeeding rows, slip the first stitch, knit or purl to one stitch before the gap, close the gap with a decrease (one of the K2tog stitches comes from the near side of the gap, the other from the far side of the gap), work the last stitch. Placing the decreases right on the gap closes those holes. 

Now, I suspect that your problem isn't so much the short row as picking up the stitches on your gusset. When turning the heel, make sure to slip the first stitch of each row. Then when it comes time to pick up and knit for the gusset, there are these nice neat stitches to pick up — no purl bumps. See pages 61-63 of Knit Fix, which talks about (and shows through these wonderful photographs) not only pick up and knit but closing holes in your sock gusset.

Interweave always has those cute illustrations!

So, I think I am going to give the short-row heel another chance… perhaps for Socktoberfest?  Lisa's tips are much appreciated, and I can't wait to use them on my next short-row encounter. 

I highly recommend this book!  It is not contain patterns, or the latest "trends" but it is a great reference guide for beginning and more advanced knitters.  Personally, I think it is one of the best additions to my bookshelf – I know I will refer to it often as I progress in my knitting skills.

Thank you, Lisa, and I wish you the best of luck.  You have put together a great book!

*****

Kris and I are off to Tennessee for Nana's services. Thank you once again for the kind condolences that continue to fill my inbox.  I have my bag packed with a lovely new stash addition. This is the Malabrigo for my International Scarf Exchange Pal… Do you think she will like it?

Have a good weekend, friends!

PS- Socktoberfest signups have been open for one night, and the names are already rolling in! Be a part of the festivities by signing up!