After checking out every book on rag rug weaving that my county library owns (my favorites: Weaving Contemporary Rag Rugs and Rag Rug Handbook), I decided to finally attack the pile of old raggedy jeans in my closet.

I had been planning to repurpose the jeans in some way for awhile. Most of the jeans are the ones that I wore before my weight loss, with a few pairs from Kris with holes in the knees and pockets. At first I was thinking about a quilt, but I just have never gotten the real urge to try quilting… so, with my new fascination and love for weaving, I figured the jeans would be a great way to practice rag rug weaving! My used loom came with several rag shuttles, and after reading the aforementioned books, I think the process sounds like a lot of fun. So… I just shredded my jeans. Here’s how I did it

Gathering all of the jeans up, I determined that the best way to repurpose the fabric was to cut in continuous strips. I started the process by cutting off the hem of the jeans. Of course, the hem could be used, but I thought that the double layer of thickness would throw off the texture of the final project. *snip snip*

This process is tough on the hands - especially around the heavy seams, so take frequent breaks to stretch your hands, and expect a little soreness in the morning. Your best bet is to get some strong sharp scissors.

Because the pant legs are tubular, you are going to cut left to right, at a slight diagonal. This will help you maximize the fabric for your strips, and make it one continuous piece. When the cuff (hem) is cut off, make a cut next to the side seam, about 1″ or 4-5cm. From there, begin cutting on the diagonal.

Just like your old cut-off jean shorts, the strips are going to be a little raggedy. If you want a cleaner edge without the fray, it may be better to use some other kind of material for your rag base. I have a pile to t-shirts and old cotton “work” shirts” that are next in line for rag rug weaving.

As you work your way up around the pant leg, you can decide how far you want to go. I chose to go up to the hips, where the inseams meet between the legs, and where the back pockets were added. This still leave quite a bit of material - but it is harder to use - and to cut - because of all of the seams. If you want to use all of your scraps, you may look into some other denim crafts. I have seen some versions of pillows and even tote bags and purses that use jeans.

Each leg that I cut yielded a good amount of fabric. I did not count the yardage, but one pant leg made a nice ball! As I cut more, I had many cute little denim rag balls to play with…

Now comes the fun part. I need to choose an appropriate warping yarn. I am planning to use cotton, probably some of the Sinfonia mercerized cotton in the stash. Just need to measure it out and then put it on the loom… I am hoping that the cotton will be strong enough. I have had a few problems with broken warp threads lately… any tips from seasoned weavers out there?

I am hoping to have the same kind of success as Felicia had with her denim rag rug - although my strips are a little larger than hers. My loom should be strong enough to handle the heavy beating that is required to make rugs. (It handled the heavy beating of the weft-faced sampler I did…) I know the previous loom owner used it for rugs (hence the rag shuttles) so I am gonna give it a go!

Of course, rags can be used in a number of ways. Weaving is only one of the many (see the Worsted Witch post about rag weaving). There is a great rag rug in Mason-Dixon Knitting, and a number of ways you could use the recycled materials for knitting, crochet, or braiding. There are a number of helpful books on the subject too - full of ideas and inspirations to reuse and repurpose old, outgrown, or holey clothes.

Some resources:

• DIY Network’s Crochet Rag Rug
• Knit and Crochet Rag Potholders/Hot Pads
• “Rag Rug” article from 1871
• A tutorial about using cotton flat strips for rags

What can be more rewarding than making something new and functional out of something old and raggedy?

…and until I get that warp ready, I will just practice my juggling…

It is funny how one hobby can lead to another… and then another. Knitting still reigns supreme, but I have to say that photography and blogging are not far behind. I so enjoy working with the fibers and the patterns, capturing the textures and rich colors, and then portraying them in this online environment. Each process leads so seamlessly into the next.

As an archivist, I get to dabble in museum studies, the theory of space, and object portrayal. At work, we are working on a large scale photography/digitization project, and I was shopping around for some supplies. I came across this great professional photography stand, that is great for object/artifact photography. Looking at this equipment, I realized what an asset this would be for my own personal knitting photography and blogging - but with a $255 price tag, it was a little steep. I have seen several bloggers use a light box setup, so Kris and I conferred and planned, and within a few hours, we got the supplies together and had a fully functional photographic light box - perfect for yarn photography, finished knits and other crafts, as well as any other objects. AND it cost less than $20. We used this small tutorial at Strobist.com as the “jumping off point” for the work, and made a few changes and enhancements with our specific interests in mind.

So, here is how you can have professional quality photographs that will showcase your yarn collection, finished knits, and enhance the quality of your blog (we all realize that photographs are a major part of knit blogging, right?)

SUPPLIES NEEDED:

• large(ish) cardboard box
• box cutter or razor blade
• white or off-white tissue paper
• clear packing tape
• posterboard/foam core/felt/plastic sheeting/fabric for backdrop
• white paper or box top covered with tin foil
• remote flash(es) or bright/flood lighting
• tripod or stand (if using remote flashes)

The Strobist site gives a photographic display of actually cutting your box, so I will not post pictures of that process here.

1. Using your razor blade or box cutter, you cut out three sides of your box - leaving one side in tact, as well as the bottom and top flaps. The uncut one will be your base.
2. Using the clear packing tape, attach your tissue paper with the clear packing tape. Make the paper taut enough to take away the tri-fold wrinkles, but not too taut to break if you touch it. This doesn’t have to be perfect, it will never show up in a photograph, so if the tape gets mangled and wrinkled, don’t worry.

Once the taping is complete, you can begin to experiment with backdrops. We purchased a small selection of posterboard - one in white, one in grey; two foam core boards - one green and one black; two backdrops of indiscernable material - kind of like a foam(?); two plastic aida cross-stitch counts; and two terracotta tiles - one black glaze and the other white glaze. We had trouble narrowing our options, but all of these are not necessary to get started (but all of them were quite cheap in the overall scheme of things).

The KEY factor to a successful photograph is your light source. We used two separate remote flashes - one on a tripod above the box, and one to the right of the box at a distance of about three feet. (We propped this on our kitchen counter). However, if you do not have a remote flash for your camera, you do not need to buy one for this project. You can use flood lighting, a halogen lamp, a compact fluorescent, or even an incandescent light source. With any light source, you will have to take a number of test photos to determine how bright the light should be, and how close you place it to the box.

Tripod set on the table, above the box

Choosing your backdrop and arrangement is definitely the most artistic part of the process. Your object is the most important part of the photo, so you do not want to have a distracting backdrop to take away the viewer’s attention. Therefore, it is best to go with simple neutral papers and non-printed fabrics. Testing your camera’s depth of field is also an important key - do several test shots to see where you should place the object to fit into the frame without showing the sides of the box (or these can be cropped later with a photo editing software).

You also want to determine the best angle for the photograph. Ideally, your camera should be at eye level with the object. If you were to take the shot from above, it would cast odd shadows and could possibly look distorted in shape. Leveling your camera with the box may require you, as the photographer, to kneel on your knees or sit on the floor.

When your object is in place, and you are satisfied with the settings of your light source, do several test photos. Depending on the textures and/or colors of your object, you may find that you still have significant shadows. This is often the problem when trying to photograph darker colors like black, navy, aubergine, and even red. A reflector board, or paper may be your best bet for illuminating these dark spaces. You have the option of using a white cardboard (this worked well for me) or using one of the leftover box sides and covering it with aluminum/tin foil. This reflective surface will counteract with the light sources and bring those shadowed areas to light.

Holding the reflector board at an angle either to the side or above the camera (depending on where the shadow is) will help eliminate the dark areas of the photograph. If you have a partner to help you in this process, they can hold the board above the camera as you snap the photo, but it is also possible to prop the board on the side and wedge the camera between the box sides and the board.

So what do these photos actually look like? Well, considering how easy it is to set all of it up, the photos came out very well! You don’t need the most expensive products to get good results! To ensure good results, however, you have to consider several factors:

The Importance of Backdrop

Each object has its own color spectrum, bouncing light off, and our eyes read that information and process it. Some colors can actually complement others and this aesthetic is what is pleasing and appealing to the eye. The two images below show the same object, in the same light, with two different backdrops.

It may be a matter of opinion, but the colors on the right, with the green background, seem to stand out more, while the photo on the left seems slightly overexposed. The colors in the yarn do not “pop” in the same way. Perhaps if the yarn was a solid color, it would look better on the solid background?

If the backdrop is too busy, or the colors do not complement the object, the eyes will drift away from the image. If the object is ornate and colorful in and of itself, a simpler backdrop would definitely be the best choice. Case in point: the third frame is the perfect union of object, space, and backdrop. The first two do not complement the object appropriately.

The different backdrops on the yarns above cast different moods on the photos: the white is austere and minimalist, while the black is more sophisticated. Both are successful in showing off the yarn, and even the textures of the fiber or fabric. It is the photographer’s decision to determine the mood they are trying to convey in the photograph.

Reflector Board vs. No Reflector

Depending on the shape and texture of the object, a reflector board may be a necessity. This pomegranate (a gift from Amy for my collection) had a harsh shadow because of its irregular shape, and the reflector board brightened up the photograph considerably (maybe even too much?)

The combination of reflector board and appropriate backdrop helped illuminate the notoriously-hard-to-photograph black yarn:

The glossy paper of the label caught a glare from the side flash, but the yarn itself is illuminated well, and you can see the textures of the yarn (a souvenir gift from my sister Mimi - she was recently in New Zealand and brought back these lovely merino wools for me!)

Arrangement of Object / Spatial Considerations / Shadows

The above triptych of the Thai pottery shows three different arrangements - the middle is too close to the camera, as the viewer cannot determine the size and the focal point of the object, while the first fills the frame appropriately. The third image balances the negative space around the object. It is important to note that the eye needs space around the object to fully register what it is. This balance of negative and positive space makes up the balanced composition of the photograph. Some negative space can be attractive to the eye, but too much can be distractive. Experiment with your object’s arrangement to get the proper placement and space. Watch out for odd shadows that an ill-placed object may cast.

The spoon, in the middle of the photo casts an odd shadow in the first photo, and when it is slightly adjusted for the second photo, it looks much more cohesive.

Effective negative space?

It is an arbitrary question in some ways, but the amount of negative space surrounding these acorns allow the eyes to focus directly on the objects.

Proper Arrangement - Differing Heights

The babushka nesting dolls descend in a predictable manner, but items of different sizes and heights can be grouped together and arranged properly. If the items are indeed a unit, as is the case with these dolls, it is important to show them close to each other. If you were arranging a ball of yarn and needles, you would arrange them in much of the same way - the various objects come together in the photograph to show one cohesive object or process.

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Each photograph is an experiment. Do not become frustrated if it doesn’t work the first time! Digital photography gives us that luxury. I do hope that you have found this tutorial helpful. Please let me know if you decide to construct your own light box! I would love to see your results.

You spend a great deal of time, effort, and money on making your hand knits and your various crafts, why not show them off in the best light possible?

While the temperatures have been cool during the month, we have not seen any snowfall. I hope we have some snow on the way in the new year! To make up for the lack of precipitation, I made some snowflakes of my own…

The project is simple, and perfect for a quick decoration. It took only 15 minutes to put it together!

I followed this tutorial: 3-D Paper Snowflake.

For this project, you will need:

• origami paper (or any lightweight square-shaped paper)
• scissors
• clear tape
• stapler (the smaller the staples, the better)

I used some patterned origami paper in blue and gold. I made two snowflakes today, but could make more for table decorations, or for a mantle garland. It is a fun craft that children can also do. Leave me a comment if you decide to make your own!

While the tutorial calls this a "snowflake", it could easily be a flower, or a star. In fact, it looks very much like the poinsettia that I bought last week! The poor poinsettia was on death's door - all wilted and dry - at the market. I got it at a discount, and nursed it back to health. It now adorns my table with big healthy ivory blossoms!

Poinsettias on Wikipedia

History of the Poinsettia

In these waning hours of Socktoberfest, it has become very clear that there is just no way that a mere calendar month - even one with 31 days! - can do these socks any justice. There is just so much to learn, to share, and to use!

With so much sock yarn and so many lovely patterns, we want to make socks all of the time. Unfortunately we don't have 8 arms, but there is a way we can trick the fates a little - by knitting 2 socks at the same time! How now? Thankfully, one Socktoberist has prepared a great tutorial for doing just that!

Sara at Quacking Fiber Addict uses an unconventional method and has great results! See her wonderful tutorial using a mini-circular needle, which she reports as "so much easier than DPNs"!

She has outlined each step of the process with great photos, and has documented it so well. Thank you, Sara, for putting this together! Click on the picture of Sara knitting away to go straight to the tutorial!

Sara notes that a knitter who wants to try 2 socks on 2 circular needles may need a little practice with circular sock knitting in the first place. A great place to help you learn how to knit socks on circular needles (one at a time) is this tutorial.

And another thanks for Mama E for pointing out this great tutorial that she uses for 2 socks on 2 circular needles!

I have not tried 2 socks on 2 circulars before, but I would love to hear from people who have! Does it "trick" your mind into thinking that you are actually knitting faster? I can see the obvious benefit of not having the dreaded "Second Sock Syndrome", and that in itself makes me want to try this method!

So you have knit some sock patterns here and there, but you want something truly unique, something customized to your own aesthetic and style, whether you choose a whole new pattern, or build off an existing one. Here are some tutorials from Socktoberists that have done just that… and they give you tips on how you can do it too!

Stacey took the well-known DNA cabled scarf pattern and adapted the cables to socks! She did lots of knitty math and came out with a beautiful sock for her sister, who works in the medical field. She kept copious notes and shares them all on a TUTORIAL on her blog! Check it out!

Kristi at Fiber Fool is pretty darn amazing. This girl writes some stellar patterns, and knits and spins up a storm. She recently reposted a tutorial she wrote last year on how to make CLOG SOCKS. She has a thorough write-up, and some very helpful diagrams on her blog. Go over to her site and see the tutorial and her lovely patterns!

Donna prepared a wonderful sock beading tutorial, and she has shared it with us in Socktoberfest! See her lovely work?

Click on the picture to take you to the photo tutorial!

…and Maia has completely out done herself. She has created not only one tutorial - but THREE! - about how to design your own sock pattern. Each of the tutorials have detailed illustrations and photos like the one here, seen in her Part I tutorial:

Part I: How to Design a Sock

Part II: Design a Cable Sock

Part III: Design a Lace Sock

All of these ladies have worked so hard to provide wonderful tutorials, and I want to thank you so much for doing so! You can thank them too by visiting their blog and commenting on their hard work!

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PS–Loving this "future" blogging feature in Wordpress! I can edit the timestamp and make the blog post whever I want! I wrote up this post about tutorials on Wednesday, and I am posting it on Friday! Live blogging will return after my exams are over! (Saturday evening)