Nova Scotia provided some great elemental inspiration. The first few days of our trip were before the color/elemental shift for Project Spectrum, between Earth and Air. It seemed like the perfect place to witness the effects of the elements, most specifically the tie between the two elements of AIR and WATER. Both have such strong powers of destruction, but also of great beauty.

The sun’s rays and the sting of the salty seaside air bleached and broke this tree.

Pebbles strewn along the beach.

Formed and smoothed by millenia of wind and water.

~The rustling of the grasses in the breeze ~

The crisp spring flowers: white and yellow blossoms.

The quiet whoosh of the windmills. Harnessing the power of the wind: sustainability. I hope to see more wind farms in my own country in the future.

~ Looking into the fog, rolling in from the bay ~

Enjoying the cool breeze off the lake, viewing the cirrus clouds above

Air may be the most difficult element to “see”, but it can definitely be experienced.

How are you feeling the AIR around you?

We traveled to Canada during the height of my recent cowl craze, so naturally, I made the very wearable neckwarmers. I had grand plans to knit many more cowls than I actually did… but I came away with two good ones that I knit, and one beautiful one that was given to me by Ingrid. Good thing too, because there were a few times when I was downright COLD!

I finished the first cowl a few days into our trip. I used two yarns that have lived in the stash for so long that I don’t remember when I get them! This cowl is called the “Keji” Cowl, because I finished it right before we explored the Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct.

I just cast on with the Classic Elite Montera and the unlabeled mohair yarn and knit it right up, throwing in a few purl rows here and there to make the rolling less apparent. The cowl is warm and wispy, and kept me warm throughout the walk. A few times, when the wind was whipping up around us on the beach, I pulled her right over my ears and had a good bit of insulation. Cowls are so versatile!

After finishing this cowl, I had a few false starts - I wanted to try Nova’s new Birthday Cowl, and I am still planning to do so - but I couldn’t pay enough attention to the pattern… so I stuck with easy stockinette and ribbing. That seemed to work best, as I was already in a highly distracted state (ooh! look at that beach! look at that moose! etc.)

The cowl that Ingrid made for me is so pretty - I just love the muted colors. She gave it to me right before we went on the boat, so I was able to wear it all day! The cowl that I made for her ended up being too big, but she was able to loop it around to have a snuggly neckwarmer.

I started on the second cowl the night after we left Yarmouth, and I worked on it until I finished it toward the end of our trip. I took along several balls of yarn for knitting, among the mix was the Fibre Company Terra that I picked up at MDSW last month. This colorway was called “Green Tea”, and while there is a slight tinge of green, I see much more gray here. So, I found good inspiration for Project Spectrum’s AIR element. I played around with several stitch patterns, and decided on a twin rib variation, really showcasing the yarn. I had two hanks, so I wanted this to be a nice long cowl. By the time I bound off, in the small village of Sherbrooke on the eastern shore, north of Halifax, I knew I had a winner. The yarn was amazing to work with. I have some other Fibre Company yarns in my stash, and I look forward to working with them too.

A classic twin rib that showcases the unique blend of merino, alpaca, and silk. When I posted the first photographs of this cowl, I had interest in a pattern, so I present you with my second cowl “recipe”: Sherbrooke.

[Download PDF here]

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We left Cape Breton Highlands National Park having seen three moose (including an an unphotographed cow and calf right in the middle of the road - I am so glad we saw them!) and a bear. We were sincerely hoping for a whale sighting as well, but the storm clouds set in, and the day we planned to get out on the water was the day that it rained buckets. So, we traveled a little to the north to one of the most remote and purportedly beautiful places on the island: the oddly named Meat Cove.

One of the most northern points in the province. You follow a dirt road for many kilometers, all the while your mind thinking “is this right? we are in the middle of nowhere…” and then you happen upon this very small community. There is a campground there, and it would have been great to camp, but we wanted to get a little further on (and out of the rain). Maybe next time…

So, we headed south, spent the night in Ingonish at a nice inn, and headed out the next morning for lands south - and east. First we went inland to the Bras d’Or Lake region, surrounding Baddeck, home of one of Nova Scotia’s best yarn shops, Baadeck Yarns, and a great bakery, High Wheeler. (Yarn photos later!) We ran into our friends from the campground again (it really is a small world) and walked around the wharves and the docks.

That afternoon, we headed to Louisbourg, a fortress-turned-National Monument that was built by the French in the 18th-century. From Louisbourg, the French suffered several attacks from the British, and the fortress was sieged several more times, eventually falling in the 1760s. Reconstructed and employed by re-enactors, visitors can now see the fortress as it was before the large attacks - in its prime in the late 1750s.

We planned to camp near Louisbourg, but were disappointed to see that none of the campgrounds in the area accomodated tents (favoring RVs instead), and there were no restaurants open in the town. (The plusses and minuses of going in the “off-season”.) So, we regrouped, and headed south around the southeastern shore, and back to the mainland.

Spending the night near Sherbrooke, on the Eastern Shore, we got up early and planned to get out on the trails at some of the provincial parks.

We went around the small town of Sheet Harbour, and then headed to Taylor Head. We had the park to ourselves, well, except for this guy… The hikes worked up the appetite. A note to vegetarians: while it is not impossible to find vegetable dishes in rural Nova Scotia, it is challenging. However, many of the servers fielded my questions well, and there was often a salad choice - albeit kind of pale and out-of-season-looking. That being said, if you plan ahead, and maybe bring some of your own food, you will be fine. Kris, on the other hand, was in seafood heaven. This is the night he got a lobster.

After his feast, we headed to the nearby beaches of Clam Harbour and Martinique. Some of the widest and flattest beaches I have ever seen - and so pristine!

I thought it was a little chilly, but these brave girls jumped right in to the rising tide. We chatted with them for a little while, as well as a woman walking her adorable puppy. Just so relaxed and peaceful, and it shows on the peoples’ faces. We spent the night at Porters Lake Provincial Park - very nice campground, although there did seem to be a disproportionate amount of slugs (yep, found one in my shoe the next morning!)

We headed back into Halifax, and made it in time to catch the very enviable downtown farmers’ market. Ah, how nice. Too bad we were leaving the next day, or else this would have been the place to get some goodies!

We decided on a brewery tour, as well as a harbour nature tour. (They didn’t bill it as “Whale Watching” because of the chance that we may not see whales this far south…) The brewery tour was quite fun (more re-enactors! this time with mutton chops!) and we later boarded the Sea Tiger, the boat of New Dawn Charters. Once again, there is not a lot of photographic evidence to prove it, but we did see a minke whale. He was playing coy though, so every time he popped up, we would catch a glimpse, but not enough to shoot a photograph!

We ended our (free) time in Halifax with a nice dinner with Megan. It was great to start the trip with her, and then end it on that high note. I fell in love with Halifax all over again. Wow, what a province.

… we had a hard time getting home … (maybe I should think of it as Canada not wanting us to leave?) two canceled flights and sitting on the tarmac for six hours are not exactly fun, but I DID finish two books in that time. Funny thing is, I didn’t pack my knitting in carry-on because I was planning to get a nap on the plane. With that delay, I could have made a whole sweater!

And because I like maps - and some of you told me that you do too! - I thought it would be helpful to see our travels around the province:

The travels started in Halifax, in the middle of the province on the Atlantic coast, from there, we traveled clockwise (for the most part) around the province.  The only area that we did not adequately explore is the western region that connects to New Brunswick.  It was a little out of the way, and we were anxious to get north to Cape Breton.  The blue dots on the map correspond with the photos that we took - here is the complete Flickr set of photos from Nova Scotia. 

Once again, thank you so much for all of your amazing feedback!  I think I enjoy sharing my travels through writing and photography almost as much as I do traveling!

After receiving a plethora of accolades, it is nice to see that none of it has gone to Cape Breton’s [collective] head.  Quietly receiving all sorts of mentions on Top 10 lists and Must See Destinations - but, at the end of the day, there is not even an ounce of ego or entitlement in this place. 

One of the most beautiful places I have ever encountered?  Definitely. 

Some of the friendliest people I have ever met?  Without a doubt.
(This can be said for all Nova Scotians…)

We crossed the Canso Causeway (above) from the “mainland” to Cape Breton Island in a late afternoon. It was evident from the minute that we crossed the bridge that the Island was going to be a little different.  In the rest of Nova Scotia, it is normal (maybe even required by law?) to have all of the street signs and directional highway signs in English AND French.  And while there was French on the sign on the Island, there was also the addition of Gaelic translations.  Nova Scotia = New Scotland. 

We made our way up the Ceilidh Trail, which celebrates the musical gatherings that are common in this area, and in other areas where Celtic diaspora settled.  We spent the night in Mabou,  home of a well-known musical family, the Rankins, and their music at the Red Shoe Pub.  Unfortunately, we were there during an off night (Monday), so we missed the live music and the dancing, but we didn’t miss the jaw-dropping scenery (and the good beer at the Pub).

Mabou Mines trail, high above the town

This hike was straight up the mountain, and I may have complained a bit (maybe I should not have had the beer the night before…) but once I saw this view - it was SO worth it.  This overlooks the Northumberland Strait, looking west towards Prince Edward Island.

…and that was just a foretaste…

We continued up the coast, planning to camp that night in Cape Breton Highlands National Park… but when we saw this lovely beach near Margaree, we needed to stop and walk in the sand. 

We headed to Chéticamp, the last stop before the park, filled up on gasoline, and a few supplies (there is a yummy bakery there!) before heading into the Park.  Once we were there, driving up the mountains on the Cabot Trail, it didn’t take long before we were completely amazed.  We did the hike on the Skyline Trail - where you are almost guaranteed to see the Park’s famous inhabitants.  And we did. 

The first moose we met.  A juvenile male, right in front of us on the Trail.

When you meet a moose, you play by their rules.  While this guy was smaller than some of the others, he was still huge.  He was about 10 feet ahead of us on the trail, and seemed to be more interested in the plants than us.  So, we stood for awhile, waiting for him to move… and he didn’t, so we had to find a very circuitous route around him.

We were there at the perfect time of day ~ 5:30/6:00 pm when the sun was starting to set in the west.  The scenery there left me in a state of awe.  The ocean looked like silk, or like paper…

We camped at a little spot right off the Cabot Trail in the Park, near the beach on the western side of the island.  It was called Corney Brook.  We put up the tent as the sky was darkening overhead… storm was a’brewin’.

We made some friends that night - a group of campers were visiting from Ontario - and as the rain came down, we huddled up in the little shelter near our tents.  We talked hockey and politics, all while playing card games and *ahem* drinking.  It was so much fun.

We rose early the next morning, made plans to meet with our new friends again, and headed up to some other trails.  Little did we know… that we would see a BEAR that day.  There is no photographic evidence of this bear -  I was a big chicken, and was scared to even move at all… and I didn’t want Kris to photograph it either.  We were on the trail - completely alone, and here was Mr. Bear about 25 meters ahead of us, right in the middle of the trail.  HE WAS BIG.  Bigger than other black bears I have seen - about the height of a small horse or a donkey, but many times the weight and roundness.  I remembered reading over the Bear Safety pamphlet at the Ranger office, so, I started clapping and singing.  I made up a great little diddy, and before too long, he moved off to the right of the trail towards the nearby lake.  I was constantly looking over my shoulder the whole way back, but I was so darn excited to see a bear! 

“Bear” Trail, or so I called it.

I thought there was a chance of finishing up the Nova Scotia posts today, but yeah, there is still too much to say, and I don’t want the longest post ever… so, more tomorrow…

A few more photos from the Park:

Tomorrow: Remainder of the Island, Eastern Shore, and return to Halifax

We headed west, around the coast, and swung up to the north.  The Bay of Fundy is supposed to be an amazing place to see - with the prevalence of whales, the largest tidal waves in the world, etc. - but we weren’t seeing too much, because the fog was pretty dense.  We spent the night in Annapolis Royal, ate at a delicious cafe, and then headed further north, in the rain, towards Cape Split, a small peninsula that juts out into the Bay, and on a clear day, is supposed to showcase the amazing tides.  Well, because of the fog, we didn’t see them, but I could hear them…

One of the most technical trails I have ever hiked (and the longest at 16k - nearly 10 miles), Cape Split was an amazing experience.  After a few days of rain, and a winter off-season, I imagine the trail was probably not in the same condition that it is in during the warmer summer months.  There were felled trees, steep dropoffs, some deep mud patches, and some narrow passageways - but there were also some beautiful sights.

These trillium blossoms were all over the trail.  So beautiful and photogenic!

The western plains of the province are the agricultural center, there are farms and orchards dotting the landscape.  The geography of the region is relatively flat, but further west, and to the north, there are some small rises, which add an interesting air effect, allowing grapes to grow rather well.  So, with grapes comes wine.  And wine?  well, we just had to taste. 

Lolly swilling around.

Here we are at Domaine de Grand Pré, sampling the Marechal Foch.  This was a new-to-me grape, and I enjoyed the different varieties I tasted in Nova Scotia.  Some of the premiere Nova Scotia wines are the ice wines, the sweet dessert wine made possible by the colder climate - virtually allowing the grape to freeze on the vine, locking in all of the sugars.  Dessert in a bottle, I tell you.  Grand Pré had a particularly interesting Muscat IceWine, and another favorite was the ice wine aged in whiskey barrels (Whiskey Ortega Ice Wine) from Jost Vineyards near Tatamagouche. 

Although we did not get to travel as far west as I originally hoped, we did make it to several stops on the Sunrise Trail, the area closer to the provinces of New Brunswick and Prince Edward Island.  A real highlight of the Sunrise Trail was the visit at Sunrise Mercantile.  Mimi, the shop owner in Halifax, had suggested stopping by the shop/cafe,  So glad we followed her suggestion!

Sunrise Mercantile is a gourmet shop and cafe - in every sense of the word.  They have amazing yarns, but also an extensive selection of local and regional foods, gifts, and supplies.  The thing that made this shop so special?  the owners:  I talked weaving and knitting with Suzy, and talked alpacas and the current fiber trends with Dave, her husband.  Suzy showed me her latest projects right off the loom, and Dave showed me the newest issue of Alpacas magazine, which he edits.  The serendipity of meeting such amazing people!  Their shop is great, and the cafe is amazing too (fresh local foods abound!)

Other highlights:  Balmoral Grist Mill, and the beautiful Lismore Sheep Farm

Lismore Sheep Farm Wool Shop

Almost done… hope you aren’t tiring of this yet!  Because the best scenery is yet to come!  Many thanks to those that took the time to leave comments, it is so nice to get feedback.

Next up: Cape Breton Island.